Benin | Zikoko!

The Nigerian experience is physical, emotional, and sometimes international. No one knows it better than our features on #TheAbroadLife, a series where we detail and explore Nigerian experiences while living abroad.

Edith, the subject of this week’s Abroad Life, believes in three things: nobody should spend their entire lives in Lagos alone, birthdays shouldn’t be repeated in one city, and Nigerian Jollof shouldn’t compete with Ghanian Jollof. In this episode, she shares how she’s visited four countries and 17 Nigerian states and plans to help others do the same.

Where did your desire to travel the world come from?

I come from a family of travellers. My dad isn’t based in Nigeria, but he loves to travel, and my mom also loves travelling. So, as a child, we used to go on family trips. I also went on every excursion in school. I’ve been exposed to things, places, and people since I was a child, so when I grew older, I just knew I wanted to explore as much as possible.

So far, how many countries have you been to?

So far, I’ve only been to four West African countries, including Nigeria. I’ve visited Togo, Benin and Ghana. I’ve been to Benin twice, and I have to say that the people are at the heart of the country. They were so warm and friendly.

In Togo, what stood out for me was the food. I was determined to try out new food as much as I could, but I ended up with a runny stomach. Ghana is special to me because I felt this overall warmth there. I stayed in Ghana for two months, but I ended up getting sick. That sickness made me realize how caring the people were. The women were so happy to care for me and ensure I didn’t spend a dime on anything. It was insane because everyone I encountered in Ghana was so lovely. They also have beautiful cities like Accra and Kumasi. And yes, I know you didn’t ask, but Ghanian jollof is better than Nigerian jollof.

That’s a bold claim

It is, but I’ve been dragged for saying it before, so I can say it again with my full chest. Their jollof rice is so different—the texture, the taste, and everything else. It’s just amazing.

Nigerian jollof is better than Ghanaian jollof. How did you end up in Ghana anyway?

It was a family trip with my people. My dad woke up one day and said, “Let’s go to Ghana.” And we went to Ghana. My parents left earlier, but my siblings and I stayed back. I’m not really a fan of revisiting places, but I would definitely visit Accra again.

When did you start exploring the world?

It all started in 2022. Do you know how folks from Twitter say things like, “God, I don’t want to die in Surulere”? That was what started the whole thing. I visited Kwara State for the first time in 2022 and knew I didn’t want to spend the rest of my life in Lagos. But, I started documenting my travelling experiences in 2023.

Have you gone on any international solo trips?

No. All my trips have been with family. I’ve not done any international solo trips yet.

You guys just wake up and decide to tour the world?

Yes, we love to travel. As I mentioned, my dad is a traveller. He’s been to so many countries. Our trips are mostly randomly planned, but we typically plan for summer.

Besides Kwara and Lagos, have you been to other Nigerian states?

Oh yes. I’ve been to 17 Nigerian states. I made a deliberate decision not to go to UNILAG because I knew I wouldn’t have had as much freedom to travel if I stayed in Lagos. So, I decided to go to the University of Nigeria, Nsukka.

Visiting 17 states is crazy. Which state is your favourite so far?

Tourism-wise, it’s Enugu state. Enugu is blessed with highly breathtaking views – from the landscape to mountains, hills, rivers and waterfalls.

Enugu is also blessed with caves. The waterfalls are unique—every single one of them, the dams, the river, the rocks. And I’m not being biased because I was educated there. But there were things I found surprising about Enugu at first. For example, shops don’t open until 10 a.m.

And when do they close?

By 6 pm, it’s a very slow pace compared to Lagos. Everybody is so chill that it makes you wonder why we are always in a rush in Lagos.

Do you have a goal in mind?

There’s something called a budget traveller, and that’s what I am. Actually, I am a “budget-budget” traveller. Because I started travelling as a teenager, who didn’t have any money. My goal is to travel as much as possible on a tight budget, but my dad doesn’t support my travelling.

Why is that?

He doesn’t like the idea of it because the world is not safe for women but my mom is supportive. She has always wanted to do this, but she got married, started a business and no longer had the time for it.

So, how do you look out for yourself on these trips?

It’s all God. I’m very, very fortunate when it comes to meeting people. I don’t want to test my luck regarding security, so that I will tell my family and friends about my movement. I also carry spare cash anywhere I’m going because that’s important. Plus, I research to figure out where to go and where to avoid.

How do you afford your trips?

I should add that my first solo trip was in 2024. I have a birthday tradition of celebrating every birthday in a different city or another state, trying new foods, and meeting new people. I started the tradition in 2023. I plan to do it again this year. And I mentioned this because how I could fund that trip was 100% through savings. So, I was at university, getting an allowance and doing side gigs. I’m a video editor and social media manager. So, I saved a whole lot and budgeted accordingly. As I mentioned, I’m not just a budget traveller; I’m a “budget budget” traveller. I go for the cheapest alternatives to travelling to have enough money to enjoy the trip.

So, what are your travel plans for 2025?

I want to explore northern Nigeria and visit Cameroon later in the year, but some of my trips this year will be group trips. I’m currently drafting a travel calendar for my travel committee, which is a growing group, so anyone can join us.

Tell me more about your birthday tradition

In my family, birthdays are important, and we go all out for each other with cakes and gifts, but there was a particular birthday that just didn’t feel as warm as the others (even though I had gotten gifts). I always go all out for other people’s birthday so it was saddening not to get the same energy back. It was after that birthday that I decided never to have a terrible birthday again in my life. So, every year, I save for my trips. Even if I stay home all year, I must be in a new city to celebrate my birthday. So far, it’s been the best decision. I always end up having the most amazing conversations with new people, trying new food, and seeing new places.

Where are some of the places you’ve spent your birthday?

When I started the tradition, I spent my birthday in Erin Ijesha. I spent my second birthday in Port Harcourt trying new things.

Do you have a dream country?

I don’t have a dream country per se, but I’d love to go anywhere I can see the Northern Lights. So, think Denmark and Iceland. But my current obsession is Namibia.

In what country have you had the chance to be the happiest version of yourself?

It might be weird, but it’s Nigeria. I love this country so much, even though it frustrates me sometimes.

Do you want to share your Abroad Life story? Please reach out to me here. For new episodes of Abroad Life, check in every Friday at 12 PM (WAT).

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Something is in the Edo water. The state keeps making the news rounds lately for the spectacular doings of its young talents. Rema closed out O2 for his London concert on November 15. Shallipopi released his debut album on November 10, and is one of the breakout artists of 2023.

While these two may be the current faces of Edo, there are seven other artists from the City of Bronze you should have on your listening radar.

Aiseh

Omosefe “Aiseh” Aisosa is a hip-hop artist whose music revolves around everyday Nigerian life, relationships and his Christian faith. Five years after dropping his debut album, GROWING (2018), Aiseh returned in 2023 with Heartbreak, Bars and Melodies. The project detailed his love life and showcased a versatile music maker who can sing and rap equally well, with each song connecting cohesively into the next.

thellO

thellO (Ethel Blessing Ngohonba Mote) is a Cameroonian-Nigerian singer and rapper based in Benin, Edo State. Attention first beamed on her during her stint in the 2022 Hennessy VS Class. She raps in English, Yorùbá and her native Cameroonian tongue, Bassa. She’s a battle-tested emcee, and her social pages are stacked with freestyles and song covers you should deep-dive into.

Layzee Ella

Onose Emmanuella Bagudu, PKA Layzee Ella, is an androgynous singer-songwriter best known for her soul-pop music. Her EPs When The Lights Go Off (2021) and Feel Everything (2022) are built around vulnerability and romantic experiences. Her most recent offering, Infinito, is a collaborative effort with Romanian music producer and DJ, Vanotek.

Caleb Clay

Based in Lagos, Caleb Clay (FKA BigC) has made his identity as an adept lyricist in the Naija underground rap scene. Asides from being a great storyteller who tells introspective, personal stories and Lagos city tales, Caleb walks with pockets of flow that endear listeners to every bar he spits. His rapper CV includes three EPs and a session at DJ Jimmy Jatt’s “Jimmy Jump Off” show. His new single Pressure had Port Harcourt rapper, Sknny, on as a feature.

Aisosa

Before Aisosa released his emotional At Night, You Floor My Thoughts with producer UndieJulius in March 2023, he showed his lyrical depth of love languages with releases like Abeg, All Time Low (2021), Strange Fire and Fools (2022). Aisosa, born Michael Timeyin Igbinosa is a burgeoning R&B and afro-fusion act whose vocals and lyrics will wash over you like tidal waves. Watch out for him.

Harry Carter

Harrison “Harry Carter” Ogedegbe is one of the most exciting artists from Benin. When he isn’t exploring trap and emo-trap, Carter is drilling or making afro-pop jams like Myself featuring Lil5ive. From braggadocious rhymes to chill vibes, Carter is an all-round artist. His catalogue is two EPs and several singles deep — his latest is Ovbere (“He has come again” in his native Edo tongue).

Billy the GOAT

Ihama Peter, popularly known as Billy the GOAT (BTG), is a non-stereotypical rap artist. He conveniently switches flows to fit into his fusion of pop and afrobeats, while maintaining his rap aura at the core. STOP PLAYING, his four-track sophomore EP, came out in August 2023.

Get into these young Edo stars through our playlist:
As I prepare to write my final exams, I reminisce on my time shuttling between Lagos and Benin city the last five years. Even though I’m from Edo state, I was born and raised in Lagos, so living in Benin was a chance to connect with my people. However, as much as I like to deny it, I’m a Lagos babe through and through. I like the hustle and bustle that comes with Lagos. As much as I complain about the traffic, a traffic free life scares me. I love

The culture shock I first experienced in my first year in 2018 hasn’t ended since. If you’re a Lagos babe like me and you want to know what to prepare for if you ever have to come to Benin city, first of all, never wear white shoes out. Benin and red sand are like Lagos and traffic — joined together, never to depart from one another. Your shoes will change to shades of red and orange, and you’ll hate yourself and the person who brought you to Benin.

Of course, not everywhere in Benin is covered in red sand, but most of it is. Especially the places that require you to walk. That brings me to my second culture shock. There are parts of Benin where you forget that okadas exist. In Lagos, I’ve watched various governors try and fail to ban bikes. They bring their little task forces and impound lots of people’s okadas, but one week later, they are back on the road.

My cousin told me there were no bikes in Benin, and I thought she was joking. When Oshiomole decided to ban them, he banned them for real. Lagos state governors should come and learn work from him. Edo state has mostly expressways and bikes are a big no-no except within specific streets. Even then, it’ll take a while to find one. If we’re being honest, finding anything in Benin city will take a while. The early morning grind culture I grew up with in Lagos? Non-existent in Benin city.

Benin people do not like to stress. They do things at their own pace, especially if those things are running a business. You go to a shop to buy something, and the owner sits while you attend to yourself. If you finish and don’t have the exact change, they can’t be arsed. Get out. I’m used to sellers in Lagos offering to at least find change for me. I can’t forget when a woman shouted at me for trying to buy a sachet of milk with ₦200, like I’d committed a crime. I had to return to my streets milkless and annoyed. It was even worse because I had to walk a long while to find a shop open by 8:30 a.m. on a weekday. They open their shops late and close them early. Do you want to order a Bolt by 7 a.m.? Better use that time to fill up your water bottle and start trekking. Anything that relates to stress? Benin people can’t take it. They don’t care if you’re paying them. Their gist, their peace, their rest come first.

If these business owners eventually answer you, language might be a barrier. If you’re like me and don’t speak Benin fluently, I’ll advise you to brush up on your pidgin. The pidgin they speak here is unlike the one they speak in Lagos. Dem fit use am sell you for your front, and you go just dey shine teeth. Your 32 go dey sparkle but dem don call price for your head. Better go and hire a pidgin lesson teacher. Make e no be like say I no warn you before. At least, if you narrate your story give another person, you go include say I warn you. If you no include am, the thunder wey go fire you dey warm up for Oba palace. Dem no dey talk too much give wise man.

RELATED: Dating in Benin on a ₦400k Income

If you get the language part down and have to deal with the business owners behaving anyhow, you might feel tempted to interfere. You might want to raise your shoulder and shout at them to prove a point because you’re now a superstar, shey? The insults they’ll rain on you will humble you. I’ve not met a group of people with a worse mouth than Benin people. They curse you to say hello, and if you complain, you chop some more.

Last week, I offered to do something for my roommate, and she ignored me. I told her, “I don’t blame you; it’s me that wanted to do good.” Tell me why one of my Benin roommates replied, “Instead of the good you want to do to kill you, it will kill the person you wanted to do it for.” The scream I let out could’ve been heard from the gate. What did I start? What did she finish? And she said it so casually, like it was an everyday phrase. After the initial shock wore off, I added it to my dictionary. Benin has taught me a lot of interesting and colourful statements. When I unleash them in Lagos, they’ll gather and beat me.

Benin isn’t all bad. I think my favourite thing about the place is the electricity timetable. Every street has a particular time they “bring light”, which is helpful to plan your day. If they bring your light by 6 a.m., you know it’s there till 9 a.m. Anything you want to do should be done by then. When they take it, it’s till 12 p.m. It’s very consistent; they hardly bring light when it’s not yet your turn. Unfortunately, when rain falls, it can take two to three business days for the wire to dry, and in that period, nothing for you. Just zukwanike. Rest.

Benin is for people tired of the hustle and bustle of places like Lagos. Rent is not as expensive, but that’s rapidly changing. With the rate at which fraudsters are pumping money into the shortlet apartment industry in Benin, if you want to come, come fast.

There’s a lot of time to just relax and take it easy. If you enjoy a vibrant nightlife, omo, nothing for you. Except you don’t mind peppersoup and beer joints. That one, Benin has in abundance. You’ll eat grasscutter so much you’ll start growing it on your head. If you’re trying to find clubs, whatever they show you there, better close your eyes and collect it. Lounges? Same thing. Whatever you use your eye to see, your mouth might be unable to say.

The people who were born here or moved willingly don’t have a bad thing to say about Benin city. If they could, they’d choose to be born here over and over again. Me, on the other hand? I’m dipping the first chance I get.

RELATED: 9 Things You HAVE to Know if You Are Leaving Benin to Lagos
We gave you the African countries quiz and you killed it. Now, we want to see how you’ll perform in a West African quiz.

Note: If the text you’re typing turns red, then it’s either wrong or incorrectly spelt.

Goodluck!

Name as many West African countries as you can

You got #{score}/#{total}
You need to jazz up.
You got #{score}/#{total}
Not a bad score at all.
You got #{score}/#{total}
Ajala travelled all over the world!
These young women look like they’re preparing for a gele tying competition, right?

Unfortunately, they’re not. These two sisters were part of the refugees rescued from an overcrowded refugee boat that capsized while on its way to Europe.

The boat carrying 368 African migrants capsized as a result of sudden movement of people towards one side of the boat. Unfortunately, 5 people drowned.

The 20 year old sisters from Benin City were rescued on their way to Europe through Libya. They were rescued by MSF Sea, an international medical humanitarian organisation aimed at providing medical care for people crossing the Mediterranean to Europe.

These 20 year old sisters from Benin City in #Nigeria have the most beautiful use for our emergency blankets yet! pic.twitter.com/1XAgVnZnvm
— MSF Sea (@MSF_Sea) May 25, 2016

Even in such a hopeless situation, they still managed to find happiness. They’re proof that Nigerians are just the happiest and most resilient people on earth.

The refugee crisis is as heartbreaking as it gets. Scores of people desperate to get better lives in Europe die at sea annually. The refugee/migrant crisis ought to be addressed immediately.
1. When a fresher asks you where “Ofolawbasement” is.

See this one.
2. When you see the queue for uniben shuttle to new Benin.

God forbid.
3. When you’re walking with a girl in Ekosodin and you hear “guy show”.

Not today, satan.
4. When there’s no light in school and you go to charge at GTB.

Na wa.
5. How reading halls look during exam time:

You people know how to read now abi?
6. You and your guys, when Post UME babes start showing:

We move.
7. When you tell the intra-campus bus driver that you’re going to block of flats.

Ah! No vex.
8. When you see shotput nylons flying out of hall 2.

Damn!
9. When the smell of beans hits you as you enter hall 4.

YES LORD!
10. You, watching insults fly between hall 2 girls and hall 3 boys.

Are you not entertained?
11. When you’re trying to read in night class and you hear “My brothers and sisters, I won’t take much of your time”

Chai!
12. When you decide that your life is more important.

I cannot come and go and die.
13. When you are passing BDPA at night and you hear something that sounds like a gunshot.

Jehovah!
14. When you get to 500LT by 6am for an 8am class.

What the hell?
15. Uniben and long queues.

B.Sc in Queueing along with your real degree.
16. When you’re single and you see couples loving up at hall 2 car park and love gutter.

What are you people doing?
17. When you are waiting for buka 7 rice and someone tries to cut in front of you

You wan’t to die ba?
18. Whenever you have to use a toilet in the hall.

Disease is not my portion. Co-written with Zikoko contributor, @TheGrandVezir