The Nigerian experience is physical, emotional, and sometimes international. No one knows it better than our features on #TheAbroadLife, a series where we detail and explore Nigerian experiences while living abroad.
Sandra* (28) left Nigeria for a master’s in Russia just months after the start of its war with Ukraine. In this story, she shares her experiences with school, work, and racism in Russia, and what life is like on the ground in a country at war.
Where do you live currently, and when did you leave Nigeria?
I live in Moscow, Russia, and I left Nigeria in late 2022.
What inspired you to leave?
It was mostly to study, and I just wanted to experience life outside of Nigeria. During the COVID-19 pandemic, I applied to many study opportunities, but they either offered partial scholarships or nothing at all. At the time, I didn’t have the funds. So when this fully funded Russian scholarship came along, I decided to just give it a shot. I’ve now completed my master’s here, and I’m currently working on my doctorate.
What was it like arriving in Russia for the first time?
The experience was awesome initially because getting the visa was easier than I expected. The whole process was pretty much seamless. But because of the sanctions, many international airports in Russia were closed, so I couldn’t fly straight to my destination city. I had to land in Moscow and then take a local flight to my final destination.
Upon my arrival, the cold hit me smack in the face. I already knew it’d be cold in Russia, but the severity of it was quite the shock. People had already told me I would need to come with jackets, but the jackets you can buy in Nigeria don’t hold up to the cold here. It was very difficult to adjust at first. Then there was the language; it’s very difficult as a first-timer.
Do you speak Russian now?
Not fluently. I know enough to navigate my way on a day-to-day basis, but that’s all. Fortunately, I live in Moscow now, which has more English speakers, but in other cities, it is very rare to find English speakers.
How do you handle classes?
My studies are in English, but I try to learn Russian on my own. I use Duolingo and YouTube. I also try to get better by speaking with locals.
How much Russian do you need to successfully shop at a supermarket?
As a first-timer, you don’t need to speak much if you know what you want. If you are shy, you can just walk around until you find what you need. Otherwise, you can use Yandex Translator, which is the Russian version of Google Translate. You type what you want and show it to the attendant. Better yet, show them a picture because sometimes the translations aren’t accurate. Now that I’ve been here a while, I can easily tell them what I want.
What was it like travelling to a country at war?
When I left Nigeria, people were asking why I was going to a place actively at war. But coming here, I’ve come to understand that what the news portrays is different from the experience here. Life on the ground here is fine; you can’t even tell there’s a war going on.
You’d expect a country at war to stop letting people in, but Russia still has its scholarship applications open for foreign students. The process was stress-free and seamless for me. But they’ve had to make it a bit more difficult recently because so many people are trying to come. When I arrived, you could come with a one-way ticket, but now they ask you to book a return ticket just in case.
The sanctions have made things a little harder. Because most foreign companies left, it’s harder to find work here now. But the country is doing very well. Most things we use here are built in Russia, so they don’t rely as much on imports.
Aside from the weather and language, what else did you find difficult?
So many things. In winter, when it snows, the ground is very slippery, and you have to be very careful. This is where you see how different the culture is. In Nigeria, if someone trips and falls, people rush to help. Here, they will walk past you. It feels like nobody cares about anyone else. I’ve seen elderly people fall, and I’ve gone to help them up, only for them to refuse. They will tell you not to worry, that they don’t need your help. It was a massive culture shock.
Then there is the food. They have staple foods like bread, rice, and potatoes, but how they cook them is different. They don’t look appetising to me. They don’t really use pepper, and the food isn’t very tasty. It took a long time for me to learn how to use their ingredients to make things like Jollof rice or spaghetti that taste like what we have back home.
Another thing was transport. In Lagos, you can stop a bus almost anywhere. Here, they have designated bus stops, and they only stop there. If you miss them, you have to wait for the next bus, which might take 20 or 30 minutes. It makes me miss Lagos sometimes.
I get that. How did you find the educational system?
I think it’s awesome. Classes started while I was still in Nigeria, so I attended virtually at first. I was waking up at 2:00 a.m. to attend 8:00 a.m. classes due to the timezone difference. By the time I arrived, it was halfway through the semester, but the lecturers were very supportive. There is no teacher-student barrier like in Nigeria. You can message your lecturers on WhatsApp or Telegram anytime.
The exams are interesting. They use a system where you pick a numbered paper—like a raffle draw—and you have to answer and defend whatever question is on that paper. You have to read very widely because you don’t know what you’ll pick.
What does a typical day look like for you?
I work, and I study. I teach English, which is what most international students do here. My day is a triangle: work, school, back to the house. For fun, people go to clubs, but I don’t enjoy that because they mostly play Russian music. My friends and I usually go for karaoke, bowling, or tours of museums. But I am an introvert, so I’m also fine just being by myself.
Was it easy to find a job when you arrived?
No, it was difficult. I was in a different city for school when I first arrived. Outside of Moscow, they have more of the locals—the older ones who have experienced many wars. They are not really open-minded about foreigners, so they’d rather employ Russians.
It was difficult to get a job at first, but fortunately, the scholarship came with a stipend. It wasn’t much—it covers food, transport, and the hostel—so you can’t save anything. I eventually learned how to use job apps and got connections through other Nigerians.
Have you experienced racism?
Well, maybe not directly. When I just arrived, I was with someone who spoke Russian. As we walked past some people, she started exchanging words with them. She said they were calling me a “monkey” and she was cursing them back.
Some people here still believe there is no water or food in Africa, or that we don’t wear clothes. I think it’s because of how movies have portrayed Africa. Teenagers will see you on the street and start laughing, and the worst will call you the N-word.
I remember a particular day in the metro. A boy, about 13 years old, was sitting with his bag on the chair next to him. I asked him to move the bag so I could sit, and he did. Immediately I sat, the boy stood up and went to the other side of his mother. He said in English, “I’m scared.” I was surprised because he didn’t have a Russian accent, so I’m sure he was taught by a foreigner, yet he still reacted that way. His mother did not even caution him.
Is your support system mostly Nigerians?
Yes, almost all of my friends are Nigerian. I met some through school, and some I knew from back home. It helps to have them because there are days when you feel depressed. Living here is a struggle sometimes, so having friends to encourage you makes a difference.
Have you been to Nigeria since you left?
No. It is purely due to finances. By the time you look at the cost of a flight ticket, you realise you’ll be spending months of work on one trip. Going home and coming back is just too expensive for my plans right now.
Do you see yourself building a permanent future in Russia?
No, Russia is not the final destination; it is a stepping stone. I’m looking for countries where I can raise a family, and I don’t think I can do that here. The documentation rules change often, and there is always a language barrier. I’d prefer an English-speaking country like Canada.
What has been your worst experience in Russia?
Documentation and job-hunts. The documentation is a nightmare. You get an immigration card at the border that is as important as your passport. If you lose it, you are in big trouble. After graduation, you get a six-month temporary residency, then you apply for permanent residency. The process is super complicated. If one document is missing, they reject it. This is how many people end up being illegal because they just give up on the process.
In terms of work, they don’t want Black people in certain organisations, like hospitals or banks. Then some try to short-pay you. They might say you’ll make 10,000 rubles for a shift and then give you 5,000, claiming you were late.
I once went to wash dishes at a restaurant. My shift was from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. When it ended, I wanted to leave, but the lady in charge—who was probably the same age as my youngest sibling—tried to force me to wash extra dishes. Public transport stops at 1:00 a.m., so the agreement is that the employer books a cab for you. This lady threatened not to book my cab unless I did the dishes. I felt so insulted. I cried on my way home that night.
That sounds terrible. What about your best experience?
One was just before my birthday. A stranger at the metro station walked up to me and gave me a flower. It was shocking, but it felt really good. Also, meeting my friends here has been amazing. Life without them would be very terrible.
How has your experience been with crime and security?
Security is top-notch. As a lady, you can go out at any time of the night, and you’d be safe. There are cameras everywhere. However, you’re more likely to be harassed by police. They’ll just walk up and ask for your documents. It happens more to the guys. It is embarrassing and frustrating, and even if you have your legal documents, sometimes they take you to the station for no reason.
We’re having this conversation on Valentine’s Day. Didn’t you have any plans?
I didn’t even think about it until you mentioned it! I’d rather just be at home. When you are here, you have little time to rest. I spend about two hours in transit, even without traffic. Thinking of spending 4 hours in transit for a 1-hour hangout in the cold, I’d rather stay home.
How does dating in Russia compare to Nigeria?
I have dated Nigerians here, and I think it requires a bit more maturity. In Nigeria, there is an expectation that the man covers all the bills. But here, you know how hard it is to make money. So, you also have to offer support.
Dating locals is different. They are very big on gifting flowers and public displays of affection (PDA). You see it everywhere—on the bus, in the metro. Nobody cares.
One thing I’ve observed is that the African guys here lie a lot. I know guys who have wives and families in Nigeria or Canada, but they tell you they are single. Later, you find out the guy is travelling home to get married. It is very common.
On a scale of 1 to 10, how happy are you in Russia?
I would say a seven. I still have to deal with all the annoying documentation and figure out my next move. With the sanctions, many foreign embassies are not in the country, so applying for a visa elsewhere is difficult. For me, Russia is just a stepping stone.
Do you want to share your Abroad Life story? Please reach out to me here. For new episodes of Abroad Life, check in every Friday at 12 PM (WAT).
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