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Time on the road

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Toketemu December 6th

The Sultan of Sokoto Is A Hoot

Through Mali, Burkina Faso and Niger, the influence of the Sokoto caliphate is still prominent. History students might be familiar with the story of the Sokoto Caliphate and how it came to be about 200 years ago. If you don’t know the story, you must have at least heard the name Usman Danfodio. From Benin […]
Toketemu December 4th

Niger Feels A Lot Like Northern Nigeria

First of all, there’s a lot of red dust. It coats everything, the trees, the buildings, and even little kids playing in the streets. A good number of people wear face masks to protect themselves. And by midday, we were all sniffling and sneezing sporadically.  There are suddenly many people speaking Hausa. It’s spoken even […]
Toketemu December 3rd

How Safe Is West Africa?

Before we embarked on this trip and even during the course of this trip, I’ve gotten questions about safety from loved ones and concerned strangers. “Are you going with security?” “How safe is x place or y place?” Guinea: In the 72 days we’ve been on the road, we’ve never had a cause to fear […]
Fuad December 1st

Burkinabes Love To Ride Motorcycles

The first thing I learnt about Burkina Faso was their past iconic leader, Thomas Sankara. The first thing I discovered about him was his motorcycle. Coming to Ouagadougou, and even passing through towns to get here, one thing was clear, Burkinabes love to ride. However, Thomas’ motorcycle wasn’t a quirk, it was a way of […]
Toketemu November 30th

The Artisanal Market In Ouagadougou Is Impressive

I’m really into artisanal markets. In every country we’ve found one, I’ve dragged the gang along to go ooh and ahh over art, woodwork and local fabrics alongside white people who talk about ‘Africa’ like some exotic fruit. We hadn’t planned to go to the one, in Ouagadougou at first. With just 11 days left […]
Fuad November 29th

We Just Travelled On Our Longest Single Stretch, No One Noticed

Travelling across West Africa by road has been unpredictable at best, and impossible at worst. For example, travelling from Man in Cote D’Ivoire to Liberia should be a 500-kilometre trip. If you’re driving along a 500-kilometre superhighway, that should take you five hours if you’re carrying a grandparent in the backseat. Well, it took us […]
Toketemu November 28th

We Found Rice And Stew For the First Time In 60 Days

Rice is a staple in West Africa. Beyond Jollof rice, West Africans consume rice in as many forms as we can. Plain old white rice with sauce or stew, fried rice not to be mistaken with fry rice which is a whole other thing, tuwo and masa, the list is endless. We’ve talked a lot […]

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